Daphne Guinness for Alexander McQueen - Is Fashion Art?

Daphne Guinness got ready for the Met Costume Gala in the window of Barneys in NYC as a performance art tribute to her friend Alexander McQueen, in honor of the Costume Institute’s new exhibition, Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. “Can fashion ever be art?” I may be repeating myself, but in my opinion the answer is yes, but one thing is not more valid than the other. It is not a matter of “better than” but a difference in perception. I think my position has always been clear, though some would disagree. It could not by any means be argued that all fashion is art, nor all designers artists, but figures such as McQueen, Saint Laurent, and Balenciaga (among others) prove that occasionally there exist exceptional creative minds, groundbreaking artists, who just happen to have chosen clothing as their canvas. I feel that the clothing industry has become increasingly confused, its identity increasingly fractured by corporate demands. I believe there has been a lull in the last two decades, and my prediction is that this will lead to some sort of explosion of ideas." 'Remembrance of Things Past: Daphne Guinness on Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow Behind the Windows at Barneys', Vogue.com.
So what is art? The age old question that takes me back to my Art History 101 lectures. I believe that fashion can unequivocally be art. At University they told us that one categorization of art is Art is "what the 'art world' tells you is art"- the art world being artists, dealers, curators etc. I believe that art something you find interesting or beautiful or moves you. It could be an inanimate object, or an installation or video - such as McQueen's Kate Moss hologram. Or a storm, or a rainbow. Something that causes a reaction. Fashion most definitely does this for me. A Nicholas Kirkwood shoe - like sculpture. A mille feuille of ruffles by Versace Couture cascading around Sarah Jessica Parker in the final episode of 'Sex and the City'. Sir Francis Bacon said "Fashion is only the attempt to realize art in living forms and social intercourse." I like that quote.
Daphne has purchased Isabella Blow's entire collection and hopes to exhibit it one day. "Ever since I purchased it after her death, I have toyed and struggled with how best to illuminate her collection—the most vivid representation of who she was, evoking memories of her perfect idiosyncrasies, her quick eye, and her wonderful daring persona...It became apparent to me that it was a good way to start to curate her collection as well as my own and to share it with people who appreciate art as fashion."

Isabella Blow by by Steven Meisel, 1993

"It’s Issy—it’s her DNA—it should not be scattered to the four winds. "I want it to remain as a monument."

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty runs at the Met until July 31st. Surprisingly, only a handful of celebs rocked up to the Met Costume Gala wearing McQueen - here they are, in order of my favourites.

Karen Elson

Daphne

SJP

Giselle

Chloe Sevigny

Naomi Campbell

See here for more on the divine Ms Guinness, and here for more on Isabella Blow and Alexander McQueen.

My Style Icons: 1. Daphne Guinness

Daphne Guinness is a a name we don't hear about much down under. You may be familiar with 'Guinness' though - yes, she's of the beer family. I came across Daphne Guinness in the society pages in Vogue, her image just leapt out at me and piqued my interest with her amzing two-tone hair and haute couture outfits. She always seemed to be hanging out with the coolest people - Isabella Blown, Tom Ford, McQueen, John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier. Then in 2008 I picked up this Italian vogue in Whitcoulls with Daphne on the cover and the shoot inside by Steven Klein blew me away.
Daphne was a Muse of Alexander McQueen, her ice queen looks, tiny stature and and shock of white hair & skin making her the perfect dolly for mcQueen to dress up in his outrageous, theatrical designs.
(She is the mysterious veiled gold figure, far left at the tribute to Alexander McQueen which opened London Fashion Week)

I can see why - she has this glacial cool and always seems to be groomed within an inch of her life. Posh may be seen in flats and barefoot on the beach, but not Ms Guiness! I love her latest quote:

“You know, the last blizzard, in December, I wore these (seven-inch-high) shoes and I walked twenty blocks in them, and then I tried to walk back and it was so cold. And my best friend Robin was like, You’re going to break your neck in those shoes. And I was sliding a bit, but I have a very steady walk,” she told us. “Shit happens. I guess I could break my neck tomorrow.”

RIP Alexander the Great

Alexander 'Lee' McQueen was more than just the designer of the ubiquitous skull scarf & Lady Gaga's crazy outfits. He dropped out of school at 16 to accept an apprenticeship learning bespoke British tailoring on Savile Row, and also worked with costumiers Angels and Bermans, Romeo Gigli, and Koji Tatsuno before graduating from St Martin's college with a Masters in fashion design.

"Integral to the McQueen culture is the juxtaposition between contrasting elements: fragility and strength, tradition and modernity, fluidity and severity. An openly emotional and even passionate viewpoint is realised with a profound respect and influence for the arts and crafts tradition."

From www.AlexanderMcQueen.com

His impeccable tailoring and skill for pattern making shone through all of his clothes, a legacy of his start on Savile Row. Upon his graduation from St Martin's in 1992, larger than life stylist Isabella Blow purchased his entire collection, & there started his trend for pairing with dynamic fashion forward artists & designers such as Bjork, Madonna, Daphne Guinness, Lady Gaga and Philip Treacy. He and Isabella Blow became close friends, preferring dinner with McQueen and his beloved Mother (who passed away a week before McQueen took his own life), over networking at glitzy fashion parties. Isabella Blow's suicide in 2007 leaving McQueen devastated.
As well as the avant garde, he also designed for Target and Puma, his influence and aesthetic translatable across the board. McQueen's designs transcended budget, and 'social status'.
Alexander McQueen has many accomplishments in the fashion industry. In 1996 he took the mantle of Chief Designer at Givenchy Haute Couture from another 'enfant terrible', John Galliano. He was one of the youngest designers to achieve the title "British Designer of the Year", which he won four times. He was also the first designer to create a line for Mac cosmetics, with amazingly rich gold and turquoise pigments, inspired by Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra.

"“I'm interested in designing for posterity. People who buy McQueen are going to hand the clothes down to their children, and that's very rare today.”
Alexander McQueen, Harpers Bazaar

Video: Kate Moss in Alexander McQueen mille feuille 'Oyster' dress

Hologram version, live at the McQueen show